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This pattern was updated on 12/11/17 and 7/30/19.
To purchase a printable, ad-free version of this pattern with all updates included for just $3, visit https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/one-big-cake-shawl-scarf.
This project requires very little effort for very gratifying results. Using only a single Caron Big Cake and the most elementary of crochet stitches, you can quickly make this versatile, one-size-fits-most piece that can be worn as either a shawl or a scarf.
Caron Big Cakes are new this fall and this is the first time I’ve worked with them. One thing I noticed was that while the label calls for a size H hook, I found that too small for this pattern because the resulting fabric was stiff. So, I tested progressively larger hooks until I reached size K, which produced a fabric with the right “feel.” Everyone’s tension is different, so don’t be afraid to try a different hook to get the feel you want. This shawl scarf is meant to be cozy as well as easy and colorful.
To make the shawl scarf pictured, I used one Caron Big Cake in the color “Toffee Brickle” and crocheted 34 rows, plus the border; I had 1-1/8 ounces of yarn left over. The resulting triangle measures 58″ along the long side, 39″ on each short side, and 27″ tall.
This can easily be sized smaller for a child – just work fewer rows!
If you plan to make an adult size and use up most of the cake, you should stop adding rows when you have at least 3/4 of an ounce of yarn left, so that you have enough to make the border.
Here are two versions of a video tutorial showing the basic steps. The first, original video is 6 minutes long. In response to the feedback it received, I’ve added a slower version of the same tutorial that is 8:20 long. The written pattern follows below the two videos.
Pattern: One “big cake” shawl scarf
Materials you’ll need:
1 Caron Big Cake, or 600 yards of a medium weight (#4) yarn of your choice
Size K crochet hook, or the size that works for your yarn
Scissors
Measuring tape
Yarn needle
Stitch markers (optional; only used if working picots in border)
Stitches used:
Chain stitch (ch)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Single crochet (sc)
Double crochet (dc)
Row 1 (“foundation” row):
Ch 4. Skip 3 ch (counts as 1st dc), (2 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in 4th ch from hook.
(6 dc and 1 ch 2 space)
Because this is a one-cake project, there should only be two ends to weave in: one after completing round 1, and the other after completing the border. Using a yarn needle, weave in the first end now:
Row 2 (“solid” row):
Note: This row is repeated for all even-numbered rows that follow.
Ch 3 and turn (counts as first dc); dc in same stitch:
Dc in each stitch up to ch 2 space at point; (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space; dc in each stitch up to end of row; 2 dc in last stitch.
(12 dc and 1 ch 2 space)
Row 3 (“spaced” row):
Note: This row is repeated for all odd-numbered rows that follow.
Ch 4 and turn (counts as first dc and ch 1); dc in same stitch; repeat (ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in next stitch) up to ch 2 space at point, ending with a ch 1*; (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in ch 2 space; repeat (ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in next stitch) up to end of row, ending with a ch 1*; (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in last stitch.
(10 dc and 8 ch 1 spaces on sides, or 18 stitches total; 1 ch 2 space at point)
* Update on 12/11/17: “ending with a ch 1” added for clarification. In the “spaced” row there is a ch 1 between every dc (as shown in the photo below), but as originally written this was not made explicitly clear. Apologies for any confusion.
Rows 4+:
Repeat rows 2 and 3 (“solid” and “spaced” rows) until desired size is reached, ending on an even-numbered (“solid”) row. For each row, the number of stitches increases by 6.
When working a solid row on top of a spaced row, you will work the dc stitches through the ch 1 spaces of the row below, as well as in the top of the dc stitches.
Note: You are basically creating a right triangle with increases worked only at the three angles. Be aware that while a mistake made on one of the sides is easy to recover from in the next row, a mistake made when increasing at the angles could skew your work. Just be mindful at the beginning and end of each row, and when working the ch 2 space at the point of the triangle, and your triangle will be nice and even.
Stitch count by row
Added 7/30/19
In response to several requests, here are the number of stitches in each row (NOT counting the chain-2 space at the point which remains consistent). Note that the total stitch count increases by 6 for each successive row. If you find your triangle is not even, checking your stitch count against the counts below should help locate where you may have gone off track.
Row 1 (solid): 3 dc on each side = 6 st total
Row 2 (solid): 6 dc on each side = 12 dc total
Row 3 (spaced): 5 dc & 4 ch-1 spaces on each side = 18 st total
Row 4 (solid): 12 dc on each side = 24 st total
Row 5 (spaced): 8 dc & 7 ch-1 spaces on each side = 30 st total
Row 6 (solid): 18 dc on each side = 36 st total
Row 7 (spaced): 11 dc & 10 ch-1 spaces on each side = 42 st total
Row 8 (solid): 24 dc on each side = 48 st total
Row 9 (spaced): 14 dc & 13 ch-1 spaces on each side = 54 st total
Row 10 (solid): 30 dc on each side = 60 st total
Row 11 (spaced): 17 dc & 16 ch-1 spaces on each side = 66 st total
Row 12 (solid): 36 dc on each side = 72 st total
Row 13 (spaced): 20 dc & 19 ch-1 spaces on each side = 78 st total
Row 14 (solid): 42 dc on each side = 84 st total
Row 15 (spaced): 23 dc & 22 ch-1 spaces on each side = 90 st total
Row 16 (solid): 48 dc on each side = 96 st total
Row 17 (spaced): 26 dc & 25 ch-1 spaces on each side = 102 st total
Row 18 (solid): 54 dc on each side = 108 st total
Row 19 (spaced): 29 dc & 28 ch-1 spaces on each side = 114 st total
Row 20 (solid): 60 dc on each side = 120 st total
Row 21 (spaced): 32 dc & 31 ch-1 spaces on each side = 126 st total
Row 22 (solid): 66 dc on each side = 132 st total
Row 23 (spaced): 35 dc & 34 ch-1 spaces on each side = 138 st total
Row 24 (solid): 72 dc on each side = 144 st total
Row 25 (spaced): 38 dc & 37 ch-1 spaces on each side = 150 st total
Row 26 (solid): 78 dc on each side = 156 st total
Row 27 (spaced): 41 dc & 40 ch-1 spaces on each side = 162 st total
Row 28 (solid): 84 dc on each side = 168 st total
Row 29 (spaced): 44 dc & 43 ch-1 spaces on each side = 174 st total
Row 30 (solid): 90 dc on each side = 180 st total
Row 31 (spaced): 47 dc & 46 ch-1 spaces on each side = 186 st total
Row 32 (solid): 96 dc on each side = 192 st total
Row 33 (spaced): 50 dc & 49 ch-1 spaces on each side = 198 st total
Row 34 (solid): 102 dc on each side = 204 st total
Plain border:
After completing final, “solid” row, ch 1 (do not turn); working along the long side of triangle, 3 sc along each dc; at end of long side, work 1 extra sc; sc in each stitch on first short side; 3 sc in ch 2 space at point of triangle; sc in each stitch on second short side; sl st in starting ch 1; finish off and weave in end.
Optional picots:
Some shawl scarf patterns call for a tassel at each of the three corners, and you can certainly do that with this pattern. Personally, I don’t care for tassels (nor fringe or pom poms, for that matter) so instead I worked easy picots approximately every 3 inches in the border for a non-obtrusive bit of decoration.
If you plan to include picots, it’s helpful to use stitch markers to indicate where you want them before you start your border. That way you can insure they’re evenly spaced without having to count stitches while you work.
To work a picot: Sc in stitch where picot is desired; ch 2:
Sl st in top of same sc:
Continue sc border to next picot location.
If you use this pattern…
I would love to see any shawl scarves made from this pattern! You can email photos to spoonsandhooks@gmail.com. (Note: I’ll assume that sending me photos gives me permission to share them on the Spoons & Hooks site and social media — crediting you, of course — unless you specifically instruct me otherwise.)
Do you have any questions about this pattern? If so, ask them in the comments section, and I’ll do my best to respond promptly.
You are free to gift, donate or sell for profit any items you make from this pattern. I ask only that if you sell items made from any of my patterns, as a courtesy you reference spoonsandhooks.com as the pattern’s source.
Spoons & Hooks 
As I am crocheting, I notice that the top does not go across in a straight line. Instead it angles downward on each side of the chain two space. I wonder if I am doing something incorrect, or if blocking is required?
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Hi Darlene – if you email a photo of your scarf to spoonsandhooks@gmail.com, I can take a look at it.
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Same problem here. What are we doing wrong?
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I don’t know – I would need to see a high-resolution photo of the scarf. If you want to email one to spoonsandhooks@gmail.com, I’d be happy to take a look at it.
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So in a solid row, when you dc in the first and last stitch, you do not crochet in the “space”, but the stich above it. If you dc in the space it adds more stitches on the bottom of the triangle, and creates an uneven round shape. I hope this helps for I had the same problem when I began.
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I’m having the same problem
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I purchased lots of Caron Cakes, and they are not the Big Cakes, could I use them for an adult scarf like yours?
Also I need to make it in a plus size 3x. How would I adjust this pattern.
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Diana – This pattern can be made in the size shown with 2 regular Caron Cakes. It requires 600 yards of a weight #4 yarn; 2 regular Caron Cakes is 766 yards. To make it bigger, just keep adding rows until it reaches the desired size, taking care to end on a solid row. Hope this helps!
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Don’t understand how each row, increase by six. For the solid row each side increase by six. Had to undo.
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Lashonda – If you follow the pattern, you will add 4 stitches at the main point of the triangle, and add 1 stitch at each side point, for a total of 6 stitches added per row. Remember that in spaced rows, the chain-1 spaces count as stitches.
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Pingback: SLOWER VERSION: One “big cake” triangle shawl scarf (free crochet pattern) | How To Crochet
WHAT ABOUT ADDING A FASTENER OF SOME TYPE ON THE ENDS FOR IF IT IS WORN AS A SCARF? SOMETHING TO COMPLEMENT THE COLORS IN THE SHAWL/SCARF?
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Louise – that sounds like a great idea!
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How many rows was your scarf? I’m in the process of making my first and want to leave enough yarn for the border. Lovely pattern. Thank you, Lauren.
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Lauren – thanks for your kind words. My scarf was 36 rows. Hope this helps.
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Great. Thank you. Yes, very helpful. 🙂
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Is there a ch-1 space immediately before the first dc of the ch-2 space in the “spaced” row? It’s not specified in the directions and it’s not easy to tell in the photo. Same question at the end of that row. The directions have a dc then immediately another dc (with the ch-1 and final dc in the last stitch) with no ch-1 space between.
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Laura – Good catch. The instructions were ambiguous on that point. There is supposed to be a ch 1 between each and every dc in the “spaced” row. I have added an update to the pattern. Apologies for any confusion, and thanks for giving me the chance to clarify that for future readers.
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Thanks for the clarification! I like to think I’m pretty good at reading patterns, but often something will go right over my head. Just wanted to make sure.
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As I am crocheting this pattern, I notice that one side has a few more stitches than the other. My increases are all correct and my ch-2 spaces line up. Is this just a feature of the design? The shawl is still a triangle. Just odd that one side seems to have more stitches than the other.
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No, the two sides should have the same number of stitches. How many stitches are you off by?
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It seems like I have an odd amount of ch 1 spaces on one side as opposed to the other. Is this normal?
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No, they should be the same number. Did you perhaps miss an increase on one side?
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Just wondering, how did you get the rows to change color so perfectly, meaning they don’t seem to change in the beginning of a row? I’m so impressed by that. Thank you. (I made an owl baby cocoon using a Caron cake. It came out cute).
Sherrie
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I mean, they don’t seem to change color in the MIDDLE of a row. Sorry, caffeine hasn’t kicked in yet. 🙂
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Sherrie – that’s mostly luck and the good design of the yarn. I usually just let the colors flow as they will. Occasionally I will reserve some of a color I want to use for a border, but that doesn’t apply to this project.
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I’m confused about working the last few stitches of the solid row. To begin row 3 we chained 4 which counts as 1 dc and a chain one space. When I get to the chain 4 should I dc in the space and then put 2 dc in the top of the chain 3?
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Augustine – that’s exactly what you do! 🙂
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As I am crocheting, I notice that the top does not go across in a straight line. Instead it angles downward on each side of the chain two space. I wonder if I am doing something incorrect, or if blocking is required?
I have the same problem.
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Make sure you haven’t missed any increases at the two ends. That is easy to do and will skew the pattern. Also count your stitches – the two sides of the triangle should always have the same number. Hope this helps!
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Do you know what the gauge is with the K hook?
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Chrys – My gauge with a K hook was 5 rows of 10 stitches per row was about 4″ square. However with this pattern gauge doesn’t really matter – just stop on a solid row when you reach the desired size. Hope this helps!
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Hi! I love this pattern, and I’ve already made one shawl and I love it. The problem is that I’m very broad across the top with big boobs. Is there any way I can alter the pattern to make the sides a bit longer without making the point of the triangle longer? Can I do the increase in the point every other row (or something like that)? Or will that distort the entire pattern?
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Hi Trish – I’m so glad you like the pattern! I’m afraid I don’t have an answer for you on making the shawl with longer sides but the same height at the point. I think skipping increases at the point would probably distort the shawl and cause it to not lie flat. To get longer sides, you would need more stitches in the sides.
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Thanks for the reply Nina. Yeah, I figured it would probably distort or buckle. I’m just going to make my next one bigger all around. Another thing… I love this yarn with this project. The big caron cakes has a weight and texture that makes the shawl drape very nicely. Have a great day!
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Hi Trish – I saw this pattern and thought it might be more of the shape you’re looking for with the long sides. I plan to make it myself with some Mandala I have on hand. https://makeanddocrew.com/free-lion-brand-mandala-crochet-scarf-pattern/
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I find it helps to put a stitch marker at the “point” prior to starting each row. Because when you’ve worked your way down there, it can get confusing.
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Hello.
Normally I don’t comment but i am so glad to come across your pattern and give it a try!! I m new to crochet but still your lovely instructions are so helpful for a beginner. On the way to complete a scarf without any confusion.
Thank you so much for sharing it!!
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Thank you for your comment. I’m so glad this pattern works for you!
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I have just finished this shawl for my friend. We’re in the UK and used chunky wool which I think is thicker than the Caron big cake, and a 9mm hook so it came out a couple of inches bigger than the pattern sizes.
It was really quick and easy once I figured out what I was doing wrong, my first attempt was a bit wonky.
I’d add a photo but can’t figure out how.
Thank you for the pattern!
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Claire – I’d love to see it in chunky wool! You can email a photo to spoonsandhooks@gmail.com.
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This pattern is great!!
It was co fusing at first, had to frog it once. I ended up with one side a little bit longer than the other. Must have accidentally increased or missed something!!
Now I’ve got the hang of the pattern. It definitely helps if you count each side as you go!!
Hopefully will post on Instagram when done ^_^!!!
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I want to use a Mandala cake. How would I adjust this pattern to do so?
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Stacy – I’ve got you covered! Use this pattern: https://spoonsandhooks.com/2017/11/14/free-crochet-pattern-one-mandala-cake-triangle-scarf/
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