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This pattern was updated on 12/11/17.
I got my first Lion Brand Mandala cakes, in the colorway “Gnome,” some time last summer, but they sat in my yarn stash for a while before I got the idea to try them with my pattern for the one “big cake” triangle shawl scarf.
Instead of the size K hook I used with the Caron Big Cake, I used a size H hook with the Mandala cake (the size recommended on the label) and it worked beautifully.
As it turns out, I only needed a single Mandala cake to crochet a triangle scarf that is more lightweight, but otherwise comparable to its chunkier cousin made with a Caron Big Cake.
In fact, I think I prefer the lightweight Mandala version of this scarf. It will definitely be wearable well into the spring, when heavier pieces have been packed away.
To make the scarf pictured, I crocheted 38 rows, then added a simple single crochet border, to make a triangle that’s 58″ along the long side, 38″ on each short side, and 27″ tall. In other words, to get the same size triangle as with the Caron Big Cake, I needed to crochet 4 more rows with the Mandala cake. I also had less yarn left over – just half an ounce.
The pattern itself is identical to the big cake version, using the most elementary of crochet stitches; the only changes are the yarn and the hook size. For convenience, I’m reprinting the written pattern below (refer to the big cake pattern for photos), and also including the video tutorial made for the big cake version:
Pattern: One “mandala” cake triangle scarf
Materials you’ll need:
1 Lion Brand Mandala cake, or 590 yards of a #3 weight yarn of your choice
Size H crochet hook, or the size that works for your yarn
Stitch markers (optional; only used if working picots in border)
Chain stitch (ch)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Single crochet (sc)
Double crochet (dc)
Row 1 (“foundation” row):
Ch 4. Skip 3 ch (counts as 1st dc), (2 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in 4th ch from hook.
(6 dc and 1 ch 2 space)
Because this is a one-cake project, there should only be two ends to weave in: one after completing round 1, and the other after completing the border. Using a yarn needle, weave in the first end now.
Row 2 (“solid” row):
Note: This row is repeated for all even-numbered rows that follow.
Ch 3 and turn (counts as first dc); dc in same stitch.
(From row 2 onward, always work first dc in same stitch as turning chain.)
Dc in each stitch up to ch 2 space at point; (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space; dc in each stitch up to end of row; 2 dc in last stitch.
(12 dc and 1 ch 2 space)
Row 3 (“spaced” row):
Note: This row is repeated for all odd-numbered rows that follow.
Ch 4 and turn (counts as first dc and ch 1); dc in same stitch; repeat (ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in next stitch) up to ch 2 space at point, ending with a ch 1*; (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in ch 2 space; repeat (ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in next stitch) up to end of row, ending with a ch 1*; (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in last stitch.
(10 dc and 8 ch 1 spaces on sides, or 18 stitches total; 1 ch 2 space at point)
* Update on 12/11/17: “ending with a ch 1” added for clarification. In the “spaced” row there is a ch 1 between every dc, but as originally written this was not made explicitly clear. Apologies for any confusion.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 (“solid” and “spaced” rows) until desired size is reached, ending on an even-numbered (“solid”) row. For each row, the number of stitches increases by 6.
When working a solid row on top of a spaced row, you will work the dc stitches through the ch 1 spaces of the row below, as well as in the top of the dc stitches.
Note: You are basically creating a right triangle with increases worked only at the three angles. Be aware that while a mistake made on one of the sides is easy to recover from in the next row, a mistake made when increasing at the angles could skew your work. Just be mindful at the beginning and end of each row, and when working the ch 2 space at the point of the triangle, and your triangle will be nice and even.
After completing final, “solid” row, ch 1 (do not turn); working along the long side of triangle, 3 sc along each dc; at end of long side, work 1 extra sc; sc in each stitch on first short side; 3 sc in ch 2 space at point of triangle; sc in each stitch on second short side; sl st in starting ch 1; finish off and weave in end.
Note: I opted to work the plain border twice along the long side and only once along each short side. Since the border color (in this case, purple) matched the color of the last row of the short sides, but was different from most of the colors in the long side, it simply looked better to me to make it thicker on the long side. Do whatever looks good to you!
If you plan to include picots, it’s helpful to use stitch markers to indicate where you want them before you start your border. That way you can insure they’re evenly spaced without having to count stitches while you work.
To work a picot: Sc in stitch where picot is desired; ch 2; sl st in top of same sc.
Continue sc border to next picot location.
If you use this pattern…
I would love to see any scarves made from this pattern! You can email photos to firstname.lastname@example.org. (Note: I’ll assume that sending me photos gives me permission to share them on the Spoons & Hooks site and social media — crediting you, of course — unless you specifically instruct me otherwise.)
Do you have any questions about this pattern? If so, ask them in the comments section, and I’ll do my best to respond promptly.
You are free to gift, donate or sell for profit any items you make from this pattern. I ask only that if you sell items made from any of my patterns, as a courtesy you reference spoonsandhooks.com as the pattern’s source.