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This pattern was updated on 12/11/17 and 7/30/19.
This project requires very little effort for very gratifying results. Using only a single Caron Big Cake and the most elementary of crochet stitches, you can quickly make this versatile, one-size-fits-most piece that can be worn as either a shawl or a scarf.
Caron Big Cakes are new this fall and this is the first time I’ve worked with them. One thing I noticed was that while the label calls for a size H hook, I found that too small for this pattern because the resulting fabric was stiff. So, I tested progressively larger hooks until I reached size K, which produced a fabric with the right “feel.” Everyone’s tension is different, so don’t be afraid to try a different hook to get the feel you want. This shawl scarf is meant to be cozy as well as easy and colorful.
To make the shawl scarf pictured, I used one Caron Big Cake in the color “Toffee Brickle” and crocheted 34 rows, plus the border; I had 1-1/8 ounces of yarn left over. The resulting triangle measures 58″ along the long side, 39″ on each short side, and 27″ tall.
This can easily be sized smaller for a child – just work fewer rows!
If you plan to make an adult size and use up most of the cake, you should stop adding rows when you have at least 3/4 of an ounce of yarn left, so that you have enough to make the border.
Here are two versions of a video tutorial showing the basic steps. The first, original video is 6 minutes long. In response to the feedback it received, I’ve added a slower version of the same tutorial that is 8:20 long. The written pattern follows below the two videos.
Pattern: One “big cake” shawl scarf
Materials you’ll need:
1 Caron Big Cake, or 600 yards of a medium weight (#4) yarn of your choice
Size K crochet hook, or the size that works for your yarn
Stitch markers (optional; only used if working picots in border)
Chain stitch (ch)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Single crochet (sc)
Double crochet (dc)
Row 1 (“foundation” row):
Ch 4. Skip 3 ch (counts as 1st dc), (2 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in 4th ch from hook.
(6 dc and 1 ch 2 space)
Because this is a one-cake project, there should only be two ends to weave in: one after completing round 1, and the other after completing the border. Using a yarn needle, weave in the first end now:
Row 2 (“solid” row):
Note: This row is repeated for all even-numbered rows that follow.
Ch 3 and turn (counts as first dc); dc in same stitch:
Dc in each stitch up to ch 2 space at point; (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space; dc in each stitch up to end of row; 2 dc in last stitch.
(12 dc and 1 ch 2 space)
Row 3 (“spaced” row):
Note: This row is repeated for all odd-numbered rows that follow.
Ch 4 and turn (counts as first dc and ch 1); dc in same stitch; repeat (ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in next stitch) up to ch 2 space at point, ending with a ch 1*; (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in ch 2 space; repeat (ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in next stitch) up to end of row, ending with a ch 1*; (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in last stitch.
(10 dc and 8 ch 1 spaces on sides, or 18 stitches total; 1 ch 2 space at point)
* Update on 12/11/17: “ending with a ch 1” added for clarification. In the “spaced” row there is a ch 1 between every dc (as shown in the photo below), but as originally written this was not made explicitly clear. Apologies for any confusion.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 (“solid” and “spaced” rows) until desired size is reached, ending on an even-numbered (“solid”) row. For each row, the number of stitches increases by 6.
When working a solid row on top of a spaced row, you will work the dc stitches through the ch 1 spaces of the row below, as well as in the top of the dc stitches.
Note: You are basically creating a right triangle with increases worked only at the three angles. Be aware that while a mistake made on one of the sides is easy to recover from in the next row, a mistake made when increasing at the angles could skew your work. Just be mindful at the beginning and end of each row, and when working the ch 2 space at the point of the triangle, and your triangle will be nice and even.
Stitch count by row
In response to several requests, here are the number of stitches in each row (NOT counting the chain-2 space at the point which remains consistent). Note that the total stitch count increases by 6 for each successive row. If you find your triangle is not even, checking your stitch count against the counts below should help locate where you may have gone off track.
Row 1 (solid): 3 dc on each side = 6 st total
Row 2 (solid): 6 dc on each side = 12 dc total
Row 3 (spaced): 5 dc & 4 ch-1 spaces on each side = 18 st total
Row 4 (solid): 12 dc on each side = 24 st total
Row 5 (spaced): 8 dc & 7 ch-1 spaces on each side = 30 st total
Row 6 (solid): 18 dc on each side = 36 st total
Row 7 (spaced): 11 dc & 10 ch-1 spaces on each side = 42 st total
Row 8 (solid): 24 dc on each side = 48 st total
Row 9 (spaced): 14 dc & 13 ch-1 spaces on each side = 54 st total
Row 10 (solid): 30 dc on each side = 60 st total
Row 11 (spaced): 17 dc & 16 ch-1 spaces on each side = 66 st total
Row 12 (solid): 36 dc on each side = 72 st total
Row 13 (spaced): 20 dc & 19 ch-1 spaces on each side = 78 st total
Row 14 (solid): 42 dc on each side = 84 st total
Row 15 (spaced): 23 dc & 22 ch-1 spaces on each side = 90 st total
Row 16 (solid): 48 dc on each side = 96 st total
Row 17 (spaced): 26 dc & 25 ch-1 spaces on each side = 102 st total
Row 18 (solid): 54 dc on each side = 108 st total
Row 19 (spaced): 29 dc & 28 ch-1 spaces on each side = 114 st total
Row 20 (solid): 60 dc on each side = 120 st total
Row 21 (spaced): 32 dc & 31 ch-1 spaces on each side = 126 st total
Row 22 (solid): 66 dc on each side = 132 st total
Row 23 (spaced): 35 dc & 34 ch-1 spaces on each side = 138 st total
Row 24 (solid): 72 dc on each side = 144 st total
Row 25 (spaced): 38 dc & 37 ch-1 spaces on each side = 150 st total
Row 26 (solid): 78 dc on each side = 156 st total
Row 27 (spaced): 41 dc & 40 ch-1 spaces on each side = 162 st total
Row 28 (solid): 84 dc on each side = 168 st total
Row 29 (spaced): 44 dc & 43 ch-1 spaces on each side = 174 st total
Row 30 (solid): 90 dc on each side = 180 st total
Row 31 (spaced): 47 dc & 46 ch-1 spaces on each side = 186 st total
Row 32 (solid): 96 dc on each side = 192 st total
Row 33 (spaced): 50 dc & 49 ch-1 spaces on each side = 198 st total
Row 34 (solid): 102 dc on each side = 204 st total
After completing final, “solid” row, ch 1 (do not turn); working along the long side of triangle, 3 sc along each dc; at end of long side, work 1 extra sc; sc in each stitch on first short side; 3 sc in ch 2 space at point of triangle; sc in each stitch on second short side; sl st in starting ch 1; finish off and weave in end.
Some shawl scarf patterns call for a tassel at each of the three corners, and you can certainly do that with this pattern. Personally, I don’t care for tassels (nor fringe or pom poms, for that matter) so instead I worked easy picots approximately every 3 inches in the border for a non-obtrusive bit of decoration.
If you plan to include picots, it’s helpful to use stitch markers to indicate where you want them before you start your border. That way you can insure they’re evenly spaced without having to count stitches while you work.
To work a picot: Sc in stitch where picot is desired; ch 2:
Sl st in top of same sc:
Continue sc border to next picot location.
If you use this pattern…
I would love to see any shawl scarves made from this pattern! You can email photos to email@example.com. (Note: I’ll assume that sending me photos gives me permission to share them on the Spoons & Hooks site and social media — crediting you, of course — unless you specifically instruct me otherwise.)
Do you have any questions about this pattern? If so, ask them in the comments section, and I’ll do my best to respond promptly.
You are free to gift, donate or sell for profit any items you make from this pattern. I ask only that if you sell items made from any of my patterns, as a courtesy you reference spoonsandhooks.com as the pattern’s source.