Free crochet pattern: The “big hug” hooded cowl scarf

January 24, 2021February 12, 2022 / Nina / 6 Comments

To purchase a printable, ad-free version of this pattern with a stitch count chart for just $2.50, https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-big-hug-hooded-cowl-scarf.

Maybe it’s because 2020 was such a very challenging year, but nearly everything I’ve been making lately has been the crochet version of a hug.

This hooded cowl scarf is definitely in that category. I took my two-in-one bandana cowl pattern and super-sized it, making the cowl long enough and wide enough to pull over the head as a hood, and making the “bandana” section into a big triangle scarf that’s wide enough to drape over the shoulders.

…is a super-sized version of my two-in-one bandana cowl pattern.

The garment shown required one and a half Caron Cakes from the Lovely Layers Collection. I used the colorway “Sugar Plums.” Two regular Caron Cakes would also work.

Pattern: The “big hug” hooded cowl scarf

This pattern is worked from the top down in the round. It starts as a straight tube for the cowl/hood section, from which the scarf section flows naturally simply by adding an increase in the center front.

Materials needed

2 Caron Cakes (or equivalent yardage of a weight 4 yarn of your choice)
Size J crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Yarn needle
Stitch markers (can also use safety pins)

Stitches used

Chain stitch (ch)
Half-double crochet (hdc)
Half-double crochet front loop only (hdc flo)
Half-double crochet back loop only (hdc blo)
Bobbles (described in Round 8, below)
Slip stitch (sl st)

Stitch sequence for texture

The texture is created by repeating the eight rounds described below.

When working odd-numbered rounds, the right side is facing; when working even-numbered rounds, the wrong side is facing.

Note: To avoid a gap where rounds are joined in the back, the turning chain is not counted as a stitch in all rounds except Round 4 (spaced hdc). Therefore, the first stitch in each round is worked in the same stitch as the turning chain in Rounds 1-3 and 5-8. I find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the first stitch, so that at the end of the round I remember where to join.

Round 1 – hdc, through both loops
ch 1 very loosely, turn;
hdc in base of ch-1 and in each st around;
join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 2 – hdc in front loop only (flo) – forms single-line ridge on right side
ch 1 very loosely, turn;
hdc flo in base of ch-1 (place stitch marker) and in each st around;
join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 3 – hdc in back loop only (blo) – forms chain-like line on right side
ch 1 very loosely, turn;
hdc blo in base of ch-1 (place stitch marker) and in each st around;
join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 4 – spaced hdc, through both loops
ch 2 (counts as 1st st + ch-1 – it may help to place a stitch marker in 2nd ch);
*(skip 1 st, hdc in next st, ch 1) around;
skip last st, join with sl st in 2nd ch.

Round 5: repeat Round 1.

Round 6: repeat Round 2.

Round 7: repeat Round 3.

Round 8 – bobbles, through both loops
ch 2, turn;

small bobble – worked 1 time, next to ch-2
[yarn over (yo), insert hook in base of ch-2, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through first 2 loops on hook] 2 times;
yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook;
ch 1, skip next st;

regular bobble – worked for remainder of round
[yarn over (yo), insert hook in st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through first 2 loops on hook] 3 times;
yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook;
ch 1, skip next st;

at end of round, join with sl st in top of first, small bobble.

Gauge

For the garment shown, the gauge for a 4.5″ square is 13 stitches of the 8 stitch sequences described above. However, gauge is less important than achieving the dimensions needed for the size desired.

Size

This garment is meant to be loose and drapey, so sizing is forgiving. The garment shown fits up to women’s size Large. The dimensions are as follows:

Cowl/hood opening – 28″ circumference (14″ per side when laid flat)
Cowl/hood length – 15″
Total length of garment, top to bottom – 28″

To ensure the scarf section will drape over the shoulders instead of just in the front, it’s important to measure it as shown below, excluding the point of the scarf. This measurement should be at least a couple inches larger than the measurement around the shoulders of the wearer.

To adjust the circumference of the cowl/hood, increase or decrease the length of your starting chain, keeping the total number of chains a multiple of 4.

To adjust the length of the cowl/hood, adjust the number of rounds worked before you begin the front increase in the scarf section.

To adjust the size of the scarf section, and whether or not it drapes over the shoulders or just drapes in front, adjust the number of rounds worked before you finish off.

Keep in mind that if you make this pattern larger than the garment shown, you may need additional yarn.

Directions

These directions will make the garment in the size shown above.

Cowl/hood section

Ch 80; join with sl st to form loop.
Note: The starting chain must be a multiple of 4.

Work Round 1 in the single bottom loop of each chain. This allows the double top loops to form a clean edge around the top edge of the cowl/hood. (80 st.)

Continuing with Round 2, repeat the sequence of Rounds 1-8 until 30 rounds are completed. The 30th round will be Round 6 in the sequence. (Each round = 80 st.)

Scarf section

The scarf flows directly from the cowl/hood. It is started by working a ch-2 space at the midpoint of the round, then working an increase of 4 stitches in the ch-2 space of all subsequent rounds.

Continuing the sequence with Round 7, work the first 40 st, ch 2, then work the remaining 40 st. (80 st + ch-2 space.)

Then continuing with Round 8, work 23 more rounds, with an increase of 4 stitches in each ch-2 space as described below:

For Rounds 1-7, work 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc in the ch-2 space.
For Round 8 (bobble round), increases are worked as two bobbles in the ch-2 space:
work first bobble, ch 3 (counts as ch 1 + ch-2 space); work second bobble, ch 1.
Note: After working the two bobbles in the increase, don’t forget to skip the next stitch before working the next bobble on the side.

Tip: I find it helpful to place stitch markers in the last stitch before the ch-2 space and the first stitch after. For the bobble round, this means putting the first stitch marker in the first chain after the first bobble, and the second stitch marker in the second bobble.

The 23rd round will be Round 5 in the sequence. (168 st + ch-2 space.)

End with Round 6, working 5 hdc in the ch-2 space instead of the regular increase, to close the space. (173 st.)

Optional: Picots

Picots can be a nice way to add ornamentation to the bottom edge of this garment, but are entirely optional.

With right side facing, work a round of single crochet (sc) around the bottom edge. In each place a picot is desired, ch 2 then work sl st in the front loop of the sc just worked.

Note: You want your picots to be spaced out evenly from the front point of the bandana, so I recommend that before starting this round, count back from the point on each side and place stitch markers where picots are desired.

Finishing

Here’s how to work an invisible finish on the bottom edge with no detectable beginning or end.

If you use this pattern…

I would love to see any items made from this pattern! You can email photos to spoonsandhooks@gmail.com. (Note: I’ll assume that sending me photos gives me permission to share them on the Spoons & Hooks site and social media — crediting you, of course — unless you specifically instruct me otherwise.)

Do you have any questions about this pattern? If so, ask them in the comments section, and I’ll do my best to respond promptly.

You are free to gift, donate or sell for profit any items you make from this pattern. I ask only that if you sell items made from any of my patterns, as a courtesy you reference spoonsandhooks.com as the pattern’s source.

Free crochet pattern: Denim patchwork poncho

April 15, 2018December 20, 2020 / Nina / 1 Comment

I receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

In August 2017 I first saw Lion Brand Jeans yarn – new that year – and was immediately smitten. I bought skeins in five different colors: Faded, Classic, Vintage, Stonewash and Top Stitch.

Free crochet pattern: Denim patchwork poncho

Lion Brand Jeans yarn in the color “Faded.”

Lion Brand Jeans yarn in the colors “Classic,” “Vintage,” “Stonewash” and “Top Stitch.”

Then I spent more than half a year trying to decide what to make with it. I knew I wanted to make a garment with sections of the blues and gray “stitched” together with the orange Top Stitch color, but I couldn’t make up my mind what pattern would show this to best advantage.

When spring (and poncho-wearing weather) was approaching, I finally decided what to do: I would keep it simple and adapt my own Easiest Poncho pattern.

The Easiest Poncho pattern was designed to be made using two Caron Cakes; alternating two “solid” rounds of double crochet, worked in back loop only to add texture, with three rounds of double crochet and chain-1 spaces, for a different, mesh texture.

To get the denim patchwork effect I wanted, I decided to keep the alternating solid and spaced bands, just making them wider and each in its own color.

The only additions I made to the basic structure of the Easiest Poncho pattern is the orange “stitching” between color bands, the orange single crochet border around the neckline, and the orange single crochet border with picots around the hem.

The written pattern is below, with photos. You may also find it helpful to watch the video tutorial for the Easiest Poncho pattern, which explains most of the basic concepts:

Pattern: Denim patchwork poncho

The poncho pictured here has a 22-inch neckline made with 80 single crochet, followed by 29 rounds of double crochet forming seven color bands, separated by six rounds of single crochet “stitching,” plus a single crochet border around both neckline and hem, for a total length of 31 inches from shoulder to point. Like the Easiest Poncho, you can easily adjust both the neckline and length if necessary.

In the pattern I give instructions for making a poncho identical to the one shown, but I encourage you to come up with your own color combinations. Besides the five colors I used, Lion Brand Jeans yarn comes in two additional colors – “Brand New” (very dark blue) and “Stovepipe” (black) – so have fun with all of them!

Materials you’ll need:

Lion Brand Jeans yarn in the following colors:
- Classic – 2 skeins
- Stonewash – 2 skeins
- Faded – 1 skein
- Vintage – 1 skein
- Top Stitch – 1 skein

Size J crochet hook, or the size that works for your yarn
Scissors
Measuring tape
Yarn needle
Stitch markers are optional, but useful to mark your initial points, and if working picots in the border

Stitches used:

Chain stitch (ch)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Double crochet (dc)
Single crochet (sc), or optionally foundation single crochet (fsc) as an alternative way to make your initial ring

I prefer to start my projects with foundation single crochet whenever possible. Once you get the hang of it, it’s quite easy. If you’d like to learn how, watch the first part of my tutorial video:

Other techniques and notes

I used the invisible finish to finish off each of the blue and gray color bands neatly before working the orange “stitching” round. To learn this quick and easy technique, watch my tutorial video:

Like the Easiest Poncho, you will be working from the neck down.

Do NOT turn the work. This allows each color band to maintain a consistent texture.

The point where you start will be the back of the poncho. When changing colors, always start in the first appropriate stitch (as per the instructions) on the left side of the chain-2 space in the back point. This keeps all the joins neatly together in the back, where they are less visible, and keeps the stitches in the front of the poncho smooth and continuous.

Round 1: Form the neckline, using color “Stonewash” (medium blue)

Decide on the size of your neckline by measuring below the neck, near the collarbone. Keep in mind the neckline of the poncho may stretch slightly with wearing. The poncho shown has a 22-inch neckline.

The number of stitches in the neckline must be a multiple of 4. The neckline for the poncho shown has 80 stitches. Everyone’s gauge is different, so you may need to adjust this.

Form and join a loop of single crochet in the number of stitches you need, using whichever method you prefer: chaining + single crochet, or foundation single crochet.

If you use foundation single crochet, you will need to join your loop at the bottom of the stitch as well as at the top. Since the bottom of the foundation single crochet will be the top edge of your neckline, do this join at the bottom using the “invisible finish” and then weave in the end.

If you use chaining + single crochet, simply weave in the end.

This illustration comes from the Easiest Poncho pattern – thus the different color.

Round 2: Form the points, continuing with color “Stonewash” (medium blue)

After you’ve formed your neckline, chain 3, which counts as your first double crochet. Locate the stitch immediately to the left of the chain 3, and then locate the stitch exactly opposite it. I find it helpful to mark this stitch with a stitch marker. These two stitches are where you’ll establish your points.

This illustration comes from the Easiest Poncho pattern – thus the different color.

In the stitch immediately to the left of the chain 3, work 1 double crochet, chain 2, and then work one more double crochet. This is your first point.

Then double crochet in both loops of each single crochet until you reach the marked stitch opposite your first point. In this stitch you will again work 1 double crochet, chain 2, and then work one more double crochet. This is your second point.

How the two points of the poncho are formed in round 2. (This illustration comes from the Easiest Poncho pattern – thus the different color.)

Continue working double crochet in each single crochet until you reach the chain 3. Join with a slip stitch in the back loop of the 3rd chain; weave in end.

After this step, you should check carefully that the number of double crochet on each side between the chain-2 spaces at each point is the same – and that it’s an odd number. In the second round of the poncho shown, there are 82 double crochet total – 41 on each side – plus two chain-2 spaces.

Round 3: Continuing with color “Stonewash” (medium blue)

Chain 3, which counts as a double crochet, and then work a double crochet in the back loop of each stitch. In the chain-2 space at each of the two points, work an increase by working 2 double crochet, chaining 2, then working 2 more double crochet. You will work all increases this way for the remainder of the pattern.

This is how all increases are worked from round 3 onward. (This illustration comes from the Easiest Poncho pattern – thus the different color.)

When you reach the chain 3 at the beginning of this round, join to the 3rd chain using the “invisible finish” and weave in your end. 90 double crochet and two chain-2 spaces.

Round 4 – Color “Top Stitch” (orange)

Note: All rounds of orange “stitching” are worked as described here. You will not be working increases at the points; instead, you will work a slip stitch in each of the two chain stitches at each point. All single crochet on the sides will be worked through both loops.

Using a slip stitch, connect yarn to the left chain stitch in the chain-2 space of the back point, and then work a single crochet in the top of each double crochet around. At the front point, work a slip stitch in each of the two chain stitches, then continue working single crochet in each double crochet. When you return to the back point, finish with a slip stitch in the right chain stitch of the chain-2 space, and cut the yarn leaving a six-inch tail. 90 single crochet and 4 slip stitches.

Your beginning and ending yarn tails will now be next to each other in the back point. Because the orange slip stitches at each point will be completely covered when you work the increases in the next round, feel free to knot your orange yarn tails at the back point. I use a square knot, which is easy and very secure, then weave in the yarn tails under the orange stitches.

Notice how the gray (“Vintage”) yarn completely covers the orange (“Top Stitch”) yarn at the point. There’s an orange knot lurking underneath there, but you’ll never see it.

Rounds 5-8: Four “spaced” rounds, using color “Vintage” (gray)

Note: All bands of “spaced” rounds are worked as described here. All double crochet on the sides will be worked through both loops.

Using a slip stitch, connect yarn to the 2nd single crochet stitch to the left of the back point. Chain 4, which counts as a double crochet plus a chain-1 space. Skip the next stitch, and in the following stitch work a double crochet and then chain 1. Continue in this manner along both sides. In the chain-2 space at each of the two points, work an increase as described above, then chain 1 and skip a stitch before starting the next side. When you reach the chain 4 at the beginning, after the increase/chain-1, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd (not last) chain.

When you have completed four “spaced” rounds, join to the 3rd chain using the “invisible finish” and weave in your end. Round 8 will have 122 stitches and two chain-2 spaces (each round increases by 8 stitches).

Round 9: Color “Top Stitch” (orange)

Work as described for round 4, working single crochet both in the double crochet and in the chain stitches. (I prefer to work in the chain stitches and not through the chain-1 spaces because I think it looks neater, but feel free to do whichever you prefer.) Round 9 will have 122 single crochet and 4 slip stitches.

Rounds 10-14: Five “solid” rounds, using color “Classic” (dark blue)

Note: All bands of “solid” rounds are worked as described here. All double crochet on the sides will be worked through back loops only.

Using a slip stitch, connect yarn to the 1st single crochet stitch to the left of the back point. Chain 3, which counts as a double crochet, then work a double crochet in each stitch along both sides. In the chain-2 space at each of the two points, work an increase as described above. When you reach the chain 3 at the beginning, join with a slip stitch in the back loop of the 3rd chain.

When you have completed five “solid” rounds, join to the 3rd chain using the “invisible finish” and weave in your end. Round 14 will have 162 double crochet and two chain-2 spaces (again, each round increases by 8 stitches).

Round 15: Color “Top Stitch” (orange)

Work as described for round 4. 162 single crochet and four slip stitches.

Rounds 16-19: Four “spaced” rounds, using color “Faded” (light blue)

Work as described for rounds 5-8. Round 19 will have 194 stitches and two chain-2 spaces.

Round 20: Color “Top Stitch” (orange)

Work as described for round 4. 194 single crochet and four slip stitches.

Rounds 21-25: Five “solid” rounds, using color “Stonewash” (medium blue)

Work as described for rounds 10-14. Round 25 will have 234 double crochet and two chain-2 spaces.

Round 26: Color “Top Stitch” (orange)

Work as described for round 4. 234 single crochet and four slip stitches.

Rounds 27-30: Four “spaced” rounds, using color “Vintage” (gray)

Work as described for rounds 5-8. Round 30 will have 266 stitches and two chain-2 spaces.

Round 31: Color “Top Stitch” (orange)

Work as described for round 4. 266 single crochet and four slip stitches.

Rounds 32-36: Five “solid” rounds, using color “Classic” (dark blue)

Work as described for rounds 10-14. Round 36 will have 306 double crochet and two chain-2 spaces.

Border at neckline, using color “Top Stitch” (orange)

Using a slip stitch, connect Top Stitch color yarn to the 1st stitch to the left of the back point; chain 1 (counts as first single crochet); work a single crochet in each stitch around; join to the first single crochet (not the chain-1) using the “invisible finish” and weave in your end.

Border at hem, using color “Top Stitch” (orange)

For a plain border, without optional picots

Using a slip stitch, connect Top Stitch color yarn to the 3rd stitch to the left of the back point; chain 1 (counts as first single crochet); work a single crochet in each stitch around and five single crochet in each chain-2 space; join to the first single crochet (not the chain-1) using the “invisible finish” and weave in your end.

To add optional picots

In the poncho shown, I worked picots at every 5th stitch of the border, skipping the points, which produced 30 picots spaced evenly along each side.

To insure that your picots are evenly spaced, you may want to lay your poncho out flat and mark the picot locations with stitch markers, safety pins or bobby pins, before you work the hem border.

To form a picot, chain 3.

Insert hook through top front loop of single crochet.

Yarn over and pull through both loops. The next single crochet worked will anchor the left side of the picot.

If you use this pattern…

I would love to see any ponchos made from this pattern! You can email photos to spoonsandhooks@gmail.com. (Note: I’ll assume that sending me photos gives me permission to share them on the Spoons & Hooks site and social media — crediting you, of course — unless you specifically instruct me otherwise.)

Do you have any questions about this pattern? If so, ask them in the comments section, and I’ll do my best to respond promptly.

Free crochet pattern: Two-in-one bandana cowl

November 24, 2017January 24, 2021 / Nina / 18 Comments

I receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Check out the “super-sized” version of this pattern that’s large enough to cover the head and shoulders: The “big hug” hooded cowl scarf.

I’ve recently posted patterns for a triangle shawl scarf in both a lightweight version and a heavier version, but I’ll let you in on a secret: while I absolutely love the look, I realized I don’t like to wear them myself, because I feel like they need to be adjusted all the time. I just don’t like accessories I have to fuss with – I want to be able to put them on and then forget about them while I go about my day.

That’s why I got excited the first time I saw a photo of a bandana cowl. That was the triangle scarf for me! However, the one pictured was done in a chunky granny stitch. It was lovely, but I wanted something different.

I looked at some patterns, but everything I saw either involved making the cowl and bandana separately and then stitching them together, or else the triangle was only in the front, and thus too narrow for my taste. Having just designed a poncho pattern that was crocheted top-down from the neckline, I didn’t see why the same thing couldn’t be done for a bandana cowl.

After a couple of false starts and some frogging, I figured out how to make exactly what I wanted. My version is worked in one piece, in the round, from the top of the cowl down to the bottom edge of the bandana. Like all my patterns so far, it uses only the most elementary of crochet stitches.

The cowl is basically a tube with a diameter slightly smaller than your head, so that it goes over your head with gentle stretching, and a length that allows it to drape around your neck in graceful folds.

Transitioning from the cowl portion to the bandana portion couldn’t be easier. Once you’ve completed the cowl, you simply continue working in the round, but add an increase at the midway point of each round – what will be the center front of your bandana cowl. This forms the point, and allows the front to widen into a triangle.

I provide instructions below to make this in both #4 and #5 weight yarns. For the #4 weight bandana cowl shown below, I used Caron Simply Soft Tweeds yarn in Off White.

For the #5 weight bandana cowl shown below, I used Lion Brand Scarfie yarn in Oxford/Claret. It turned out wonderfully soft and warm.

About the stitch

For both these bandana cowls, I opted not to use a pattern stitch but instead stuck with plain half-double crochet, which creates a subtle ribbed texture that showcases the unique colors and textures of each of these yarns. They also worked up super fast – I made both, start to finish, on the same day. However, the simplicity of the piece lends itself to experimenting with pattern stitches and colors, so play with it! Have fun! Personally, I plan to use up some of the remnants of my various Caron Cakes to make one in colorful stripes, and maybe throw in some bobbles.

About sizing

The patterns given here should fit most adults and older teens. If you need to adjust the size up or down, simply increase or decrease the number of stitches in increments of two, taking care to always start with an even number of stitches, counting the turning chain. If you wish to adjust the number of rows, to maintain the proportions I recommend adding or subtracting rows in twos, with one row being in the cowl portion and one in the bandana portion.

Yarns and individual tensions vary and the sizing does not need to be absolutely precise, but if you find the size you’re getting is very different from the finished sizes listed below for each pattern, try using a different size hook.

Also, remember that the cowl should go over the head with only gentle stretching, so if possible have the intended wearer try it on after you’ve completed the first few rounds to make sure it’s neither too loose nor too tight. This is especially important if you’re changing the number of stitches, for example, to make a child’s size.

Important notes

This garment is worked all in one piece, from the top of the cowl down to the bottom of the bandana.

Always start with an even number of stitches.

The turning chain always counts as one stitch in the round.

The increase at the point of the bandana portion is worked exactly opposite the turning chain in the loop. This puts the turning chain in the center back, where it’s least noticeable.