Hooks My Crochet Patterns

Free crochet pattern: The “big hug” hooded cowl scarf

This garment is as warm and cozy as a hug, with a cowl big enough to pull over the head as a hood and a triangle scarf wide enough to drape over the shoulders.

To purchase a printable, ad-free version of this pattern with a stitch count chart for just $2, https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-big-hug-hooded-cowl-scarf.

Maybe it’s because 2020 was such a very challenging year, but nearly everything I’ve been making lately has been the crochet version of a hug.

This hooded cowl scarf is definitely in that category. I took my two-in-one bandana cowl pattern and super-sized it, making the cowl long enough and wide enough to pull over the head as a hood, and making the “bandana” section into a big triangle scarf that’s wide enough to drape over the shoulders.

My hooded cowl scarf pattern…
…is a super-sized version of my two-in-one bandana cowl pattern.

The garment shown required one and a half Caron Cakes from the Lovely Layers Collection. I used the colorway “Sugar Plums.” Two regular Caron Cakes would also work.

Pattern: The “big hug” hooded cowl scarf

This pattern is worked from the top down in the round. It starts as a straight tube for the cowl/hood section, from which the scarf section flows naturally simply by adding an increase in the center front.

Materials needed

  • 2 Caron Cakes (or equivalent yardage of a weight 4 yarn of your choice)
  • Size J crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers (can also use safety pins)

Stitches used

  • Chain stitch (ch)
  • Half-double crochet (hdc)
  • Half-double crochet front loop only (hdc flo)
  • Half-double crochet back loop only (hdc blo)
  • Bobbles (described in Round 8, below)
  • Slip stitch (sl st)

Stitch sequence for texture

The texture is created by repeating the eight rounds described below.

When working odd-numbered rounds, the right side is facing; when working even-numbered rounds, the wrong side is facing.

Note: To avoid a gap where rounds are joined in the back, the turning chain is not counted as a stitch in all rounds except Round 4 (spaced hdc). Therefore, the first stitch in each round is worked in the same stitch as the turning chain in Rounds 1-3 and 5-8. I find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the first stitch, so that at the end of the round I remember where to join.

Round 1 – hdc, through both loops
ch 1 very loosely, turn;
hdc in base of ch-1 and in each st around;
join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 2 – hdc in front loop only (flo) – forms single-line ridge on right side
ch 1 very loosely, turn;
hdc flo in base of ch-1 (place stitch marker) and in each st around;
join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 3 – hdc in back loop only (blo) – forms chain-like line on right side
ch 1 very loosely, turn;
hdc blo in base of ch-1 (place stitch marker) and in each st around;
join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 4 – spaced hdc, through both loops
ch 2 (counts as 1st st + ch-1 – it may help to place a stitch marker in 2nd ch);
*(skip 1 st, hdc in next st, ch 1) around;
skip last st, join with sl st in 2nd ch.

Round 5: repeat Round 1.

Round 6: repeat Round 2.

Round 7: repeat Round 3.

Round 8 – bobbles, through both loops
ch 2, turn;

small bobble – worked 1 time, next to ch-2
[yarn over (yo), insert hook in base of ch-2, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through first 2 loops on hook] 2 times;
yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook;
ch 1, skip next st;

regular bobble – worked for remainder of round
[yarn over (yo), insert hook in st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through first 2 loops on hook] 3 times;
yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook;
ch 1, skip next st;

at end of round, join with sl st in top of first, small bobble.

Gauge

For the garment shown, the gauge for a 4.5″ square is 13 stitches of the 8 stitch sequences described above. However, gauge is less important than achieving the dimensions needed for the size desired.

Size

This garment is meant to be loose and drapey, so sizing is forgiving. The garment shown fits up to women’s size Large. The dimensions are as follows:

  • Cowl/hood opening – 28″ circumference (14″ per side when laid flat)
  • Cowl/hood length – 15″
  • Total length of garment, top to bottom – 28″

To ensure the scarf section will drape over the shoulders instead of just in the front, it’s important to measure it as shown below, excluding the point of the scarf. This measurement should be at least a couple inches larger than the measurement around the shoulders of the wearer.

To adjust the circumference of the cowl/hood, increase or decrease the length of your starting chain, keeping the total number of chains a multiple of 4.

To adjust the length of the cowl/hood, adjust the number of rounds worked before you begin the front increase in the scarf section.

To adjust the size of the scarf section, and whether or not it drapes over the shoulders or just drapes in front, adjust the number of rounds worked before you finish off.

Keep in mind that if you make this pattern larger than the garment shown, you may need additional yarn.

Directions

These directions will make the garment in the size shown above.

Cowl/hood section

Ch 80; join with sl st to form loop.
Note: The starting chain must be a multiple of 4.

Work Round 1 in the single bottom loop of each chain. This allows the double top loops to form a clean edge around the top edge of the cowl/hood. (80 st.)

Continuing with Round 2, repeat the sequence of Rounds 1-8 until 30 rounds are completed. The 30th round will be Round 6 in the sequence. (Each round = 80 st.)

Scarf section

The scarf flows directly from the cowl/hood. It is started by working a ch-2 space at the midpoint of the round, then working an increase of 4 stitches in the ch-2 space of all subsequent rounds.

Continuing the sequence with Round 7, work the first 40 st, ch 2, then work the remaining 40 st. (80 st + ch-2 space.)

Then continuing with Round 8, work 23 more rounds, with an increase of 4 stitches in each ch-2 space as described below:

  • For Rounds 1-7, work 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc in the ch-2 space.
  • For Round 8 (bobble round), increases are worked as two bobbles in the ch-2 space:
    work first bobble, ch 3 (counts as ch 1 + ch-2 space); work second bobble, ch 1.
    Note: After working the two bobbles in the increase, don’t forget to skip the next stitch before working the next bobble on the side.

Tip: I find it helpful to place stitch markers in the last stitch before the ch-2 space and the first stitch after. For the bobble round, this means putting the first stitch marker in the first chain after the first bobble, and the second stitch marker in the second bobble.

The 23rd round will be Round 5 in the sequence. (168 st + ch-2 space.)

End with Round 6, working 5 hdc in the ch-2 space instead of the regular increase, to close the space. (173 st.)

Optional: Picots

Picots can be a nice way to add ornamentation to the bottom edge of this garment, but are entirely optional.

With right side facing, work a round of single crochet (sc) around the bottom edge. In each place a picot is desired, ch 2 then work sl st in the front loop of the sc just worked.

Note: You want your picots to be spaced out evenly from the front point of the bandana, so I recommend that before starting this round, count back from the point on each side and place stitch markers where picots are desired.

Finishing

Here’s how to work an invisible finish on the bottom edge with no detectable beginning or end.

If you use this pattern…

I would love to see any items made from this pattern! You can email photos to spoonsandhooks@gmail.com. (Note: I’ll assume that sending me photos gives me permission to share them on the Spoons & Hooks site and social media — crediting you, of course — unless you specifically instruct me otherwise.)

Do you have any questions about this pattern? If so, ask them in the comments section, and I’ll do my best to respond promptly.

You are free to gift, donate or sell for profit any items you make from this pattern. I ask only that if you sell items made from any of my patterns, as a courtesy you reference spoonsandhooks.com as the pattern’s source.

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